Monday 20 August 2012

Pyrenees

pyrness
10:00 a.m. 
I am sitting near the top of the Pass to Roncesvalles. Yesterday the 8 km climb from St. Jean Pied de Port was very hard. It was very beautiful but I knew I was at the edge of my limit. Today we had another 12 km climb plus another 8 km down . I knew I would not manage this as I had to side step part way yesterday from cramping muscles. I decided to take a taxi to the top and walk down the last 8km. Lori was feeling up to walking it all but put her backpack in the cab which makes her walk a lot more pleasant. So here I sit on our pile of bags writing the blog until she arrives. I did not get out of the total climb however as the cab could only go 6km on the road. So I will end up having to climb 6 km up and another 8km down. My only regret on this decision is that I cannot boast of crossing the Prynees from France to Spain on foot. I remembered the passage in the Bible that says " Pride goeth before a fall". I think this is when the warning is timely for me.
Last night we paid 32 Euros for our refuge Orisson which included bed, dinner and breakfast. Dinner was very good. Delicious French bean soup, beans and thinly sliced ham with French bread, lots of red wine, and a delicious sweet flan/ cake for dessert. There were about 35 pilgrims and we took turns standing up to introduce ourselves. Pilgrims from many countries. Most of them introduced themselves in what English they had and we spoke our English slowly in simple phrases so we all seemed to understand .  Everything is delightfully like the movie.Breakfast  was coffee, orange juice, bread with butter and jam.
Our packs are way to heavy but because our trip is 3 months in Europe with many segments, we are reluctant to give anything up.  This segment over the Prynees  will be the hardest so maybe they will start to feel manageable as we go.It is very windy here sitting on the mountain, but perfect temperature. We have been very lucky with the weather so far. It was overcast all yesterday thankfully.
Our 10 hour overnight train ride to Bayonne was interesting. There were 6 bunks in the cabin, 3 each side and just big enough. We had sleeping pills and I had my best sleep of the trip. We then had a one hour train from Bayonne to Saint Jean. Saint Jean was a lovely historic/tourist village. We had time before our refuge opened so we had lunch and wine in a cafe. In Saint Jean we paid 8 Euros for our bed and breakfast of coffee with bread and jam. 
Where I am waiting is next to the stone cross and flying banners. 

photo (5)

To Kim and Darren Savard and Family. This is where I placed your shell and said a prayer for the entire Savard family ( with extra wish for Sam...sshh secret). Can you find it?
Lori and I are having a wonderful trip so far. If two clicks make a clue, four clicks make enough to get us through all the complexities of keeping our adventure booked and rolling. 
Salut!
3:15p.m. We have arrived in Ronchevelle.  I am lying exhausted under a tree with other Pilgrims while Lori goes to check out the hostel. The  14 km today was hard but still enjoyable . Beautiful scenery, cows, goats, sheep and horses on the hills around us as we walked. The portion I did had lots of shady through the forest bits which were quite pleasant.
Lori thoroughly enjoyed the section she did without her pack. We have decided that when we hit a long part of the pilgrimage ( 20+ km) without opportunity for a hostel; we will use the baggage transfer service for a treat.
5:15 pm the hostel is very modern and nice. I feel human again after a shower.  Hostel  is 10.00 Euros and we bought tickets for a 7:00 pm pilgrim's meal for 9E. I hope we can find a bank machine as everything is cash. It is hard to believe that we will do this for 40 or 50 days in a row!
This hostel has outlets by the bed, charging iPhones! I hope we can find Wi Fi. The French pronounced it We Fee. I wonder what the Spanish say.


Sincerely 
Arlene


  hostel
Dinner ready for us pilgrims in Refuge Orisson.


fun
Enjoying lunch in a cafe in St Jean Pied de Port

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